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Cookware 129

How I Learned to use All Clad Handles

drrayeye | Mar 13, 201704:09 PM

The design of handles must balance a number of human concerns:

One must be aware that using single handed pots and pans is a challenge to our wrists. For decades, I used Revereware phenolic handles (see picture): every one same size; you can grab them from above, below, and either side; just a hint of an upward tilt; one size fits all.

Then I began to consider All Clad.

The three All Clad collections I considered were radically different: all metal; different sizes, lengths, and upward tilt for different pots and pans; different special features.

The most notable difference, though, was that they were best grabbed from below:

As I developed my personal collection for induction use, I came to use a) SS--or tri ply for 3 sauce pans, b) d5 for two 10" fry pans, and c) coppercore for my 2 qt. saucier. (See photo examples below)

a) tri ply: Two of my sauce pans were designed to be used as a double boiler: one part a 2 qt. saucepan and the other part a ceramic insert w/one lid. The two qt. saucepan has a handle that is relatively short and fat, and angled slightly upward. There is a matching handle for the insert. The 2 qt. handle is mounted high on a relatively tall saucepan--a bit away from the direct heat of gas and electric. With the insert in place, above the hob, it is especially comfortable for making sensitive sauces like hollandaise. My 3 1/2 qt. saucepan is about as tall, but much wider, and has a long, straight, sharply angled handle that allows one to effortlessly tilt the saucepan while stirring, and provides support for the arm while carrying.

b) d5: I have two 10" frypans--one SS, one nonstick, and a globular lid for either. The handle is a bit wider and thicker than the tri ply handles of my 3 1/2 qt. saucepan, with a reference "knob" on the bottom that can be used as described in the video. It is angled up, widening as one goes higher. The handle is suitable for tilting, or "choking up."

c) coppercore: My coppercore saucier has a handle almost identical to the d5, but for my saucier, the handle does not tilt up; all coppercore, unlike d5 have an open area near the pan that seems to promote heat dispersion.

You may not be happy always gripping from below. For some situations, it may be preferable to hold the pot or pan from above or from the side, like my Revereware handles--or choke up really close. There is a solution:

Another solution is to switch to the Thomas Keller All Clad collection:

I've purchased a few Thermoclad pans with a very similar handle:

There is no magic handle design that works for all fry pan and saucepan users--all the time.


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