In a couple weeks, we'll be taking one of our semi-regular trips to NYC for a weekend of excessive eating and drinking. Largely as a result of an article in Saveur that was reprinted in "The Best Food Writing 2006" I'm considering dinner at Le Veau D'Or. I recognize that it's [supposedly] an unapologetically unchanged, and likely unchangeable, throwback to an earlier time of French dining, and that's exactly what I'm looking for.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this place? The Saveur article mentioned a few other similar old-line French restos (Le Perigord, Le Biarritz, Chez Napoleon, Tout Va Bien, and La Petite Auberge ) scattered around Manhattan, so does anyone have a better suggestion for this type of dining? Ambience is far less important than the food. Thanks in advance.