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Josh Mittleman | May 23, 199910:18 PM     3

Le Madelaine is one of the old fixtures of the theater
district (43rd St. near 9th). I hadn't been there is
years, but I'll be going back soon: They got a new chef
a couple year's back, and he's hot. Six of us had
dinner there last night, and ordered four different
appetizers, five different entrees, and three desserts.
Everything was _very_ good. A few highlights:

* Mussels in a broth of tomato, herbs, and chorizo.

* Skate wing in a brown butter sauce with carmelized
onions, Yukon Gold potatoes, and some sort of cabbage.

* Chocolate-caramel mousse

Each entree was not only good, they were all strikingly
different: Different styles, different seasonings,
different side dishes. Each one was beautifully
orchestrated. The sauce for the skate, for example,
would have been just shy of perfect if it hadn't had a
small scattering of capers to cut the richness of the
sauce.

The wine list is excellent, including some nice dessert
wines. It was expensive, but what do you expect in the
theater district on a Saturday night?

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