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L'Arcane in the 18th, brought to you by the culinary descendant of Fredy Girardet in Crissier

John Talbott | Nov 11, 201612:00 PM

Many (me included) thought Fredy Girardet from Crissier was the chef of the Century; my two best meals of my life were there (and better than Bocuse, Point, Bise, Guérard, Robuchon, Ducasse, etc., provided me, not that they were bad). So when I read that his culinary grandson from Crissier, one Laurent Magnin and his charming wife Sophie Keller along with pastry chef Elise Guiroy had settled nearby and taken over the beloved but tired Poulbot in the 18th, I was hopeful.
I wouldn't be writing this if it were rotten, and as opposed to Mangeur's quite correct approach to eat twice before raving about a place, I've eaten just once. But for 2016, as good as Papillon, Elmer, 3B, Anthocyane, l'Inconnu, Loiseau and Tomy & Co were, Chef Magnin, 28 years old has really got a touch that combines superb products, plated exquisitely, at wonderful prices and that I hope to return to time after time. BTW they are open weekends and Mondays, a rare treat these days.
Our bill, with much wine, was 132E a couple. For details, please consult

L'Arcane in the 18th: From Fredy Girardet in Crissier to you without missing a step.

Backstory: When people ask how I established the endpoints on my 0-10 rating scale I say something like "Well, 10 is perfect so no one can achieve that...
Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée,
Ore - Ducasse au château de Versailles,
Restaurant Le Poulbot,
Loiseau Rive Gauche (ex Tante Marguerite),
Loiseau Butcher,
Tomy & co
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