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Lanzhou noodles, knife shaved noodles, and goat

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Lanzhou noodles, knife shaved noodles, and goat

HLing | Mar 30, 2002 03:24 PM

Somewhere, some time ago, someone asked about Lanzhou noodles(pulled noodles), likewise for the knife shaved noodles(flat noodles). I saw them both on the menu today at Marco Polo Noodle shop at 94 Baxter, the street where the Vietnamese restaurants are.

While I didn't get to see anyone make the noodles, I saw for the 2nd time within my hour in Chinatown the Chinese characters "grass goat" written on the wall. (The first time was at Yuen Yuen, where it's also written that they have rattle snake soup, but never seem to have them in stock, on Bayard across the street from New Green Bo)

Anyhow, I ordered the special goat noodle(Lanzhou) soup. A bowl light yellow noodles in clear broth, sprinkled with scallion bits, topped with several small chunks of skin-on, and some delicate bone-in pieces of meat. No dark sauce of any sort, but there's a light fragrant that I can't decide if came from the meat or maybe some variety of pepper. The skin is thick, but not fatty at all, even a bit on the crunchy side. The meat is mostly tender, though not melt-in-your-mouth tender, and yet all comes off the bones squeaky clean. How that's achieved is a mystery to me.

I've read somewhere about the season for serving goat stews, that in Beijing they're available only in the spring, when the pepper blossoms are fresh and fragrant, and goes perfectly with the goat meat, that it's often the Islams who serves them, always immaculately clean and orderly.

If you think you're going to be craving this goat noodle dish, it's not on the menu, so ask for "Tzau3 Yang2" La Mien(pulled noodles), or just point randomly on the wall, and find the one that's $5.95.

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