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Lacroix Update

george2 | Mar 14, 2012 09:23 AM

In the thread Why Bibou doesn't deserve Four Bells...
I indicated I was going to Lacroix, and someone asked for a review, expecially in light of Craig LaBan’s recent demotion to three Bells on 2/4/12:

Lacroix loses luster:

Based on his experiences, Laban’s complaints seem fair and gives Jon Cichon and his staff something to shoot for. If that’s the case, they hit bulls-eye during our visit.

My wife and I ordered the Tasting Menu:
which, at $75 is quite reasonable. We’re partial to big red wines and this menu was a poor fit, so a lower tannin Pinot Noir was more in order. After narrowing it down to several from Oregon, I let our waiter choose, and he did a fine job with a Yamhill for a good bit less than we were willing to spend.

Service was excellent, but the staff seemed younger than what I recalled when we were there when Lacroix himself was the chef. It was a special occasion, which was attended to without them going overboard. Jon Cichon came out and chatted with us for a good 10 minutes about preparation, technique, Japanese knives and work ethic. At 29 he’s just a kid but has a maturity that should lead to great things at Lacroix.

The meal itself was excellent. For me, the standouts were the foie gras and the veal cheeks.

Cichon and Pierre Calmels are friends and as we frequent bibou, a comparison is in order. Lacroix is a total fine dining experience. It takes a lot of staff and money to run the place properly. Bibou is a byob bistro, serving food every bit as good –and arguably better- than Lacroix.

We’re more bibou people, but are already talking about who we can corral into paying for another Lacroix dinner.

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