Lacrima di Morro


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Wine 5

Lacrima di Morro

Robert Lauriston | Jul 27, 2008 11:58 AM

I tried the 2005 Luigi Giusti "Rubbjano" Lacrima di Morro d'Alba the other night at Franklin Square Wine Bar in Oakland, CA. I think it was the most aromatic wine I've ever encountered. Intense floral, fruity, and spicy aromas, lemongrass, coffee, passion fruit, vanilla—it was like sticking my nose in a bowl of tom kha gai. Amazing. I've had other Lacrima di Morros before, was never particularly impressed.

This is the middle of the three reds Giusti makes from the grape. I found a bottle at the Wine Mine, $26. The owner said he'd tried several less expensive ones that are available locally but wasn't impressed. It's also in stock at Biondivino (which also has Giusti's rosato and entry-level red) and served by the glass at A16.

This is an obscure indigenous grape grown only in Morro d'Alba, a town on the Adriatic coast in the Marche outside of Ancona, no relation to Lacryma Christi (a Campanian white made from Coda di Volpe), Lacrima Nera (Gaglioppo), or Lacrime di Moro (a proprietary name for a Cannonau made by Moro).

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