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Boston Area

La Morra doesn't suck


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Restaurants & Bars 3

La Morra doesn't suck

MC Slim JB | Sep 23, 2004 08:53 AM

As I posted recently, I don't hold a bad dining experience against a restaurant forever, even one as awful as my first experience at La Morra back in January (see link). A recent visit with a friend who has moved nearby showed improvement on a lot of fronts. I can now recommend it, even if they still haven't fixed the spelling of their sign, which describes the place as a "bacari".

A couple of chichetti (small apps) arrive quickly and hot. Thanks no doubt to last Sunday's Globe article ("54 Divine Dishes"), everyone seems to be ordering the Tuscan polpetti. These are as scrumptious as advertised, pinkish on the inside from ground prosciutto, and have a gorgeous flavor that I think mostly comes from the Parmesan. A creamy pate' of duck and chicken liver is rich and very good. I'm glad they have also served good bread (with a fine white-bean/garlic/EVOO spread), as I don't like the toasts served with the pate'.)

Sliced heirloom tomato salads are simply dressed and fabulous, maybe the best time of year for this dish. Primi of pasta -- tagliatelle with chanterelles, and cherry tomatoes on linguine, are fine and simple, with obviously fresh pasta and sensible portion sizes.

Entree of pork is all about the cranberry-colored, super-rich, jam-like tomato coulis. Filling up, I'm glad I've opted for spiedini appetizer with a contorno of spicy sweet corn instead of a full secondo: six lovely little skewers of grilled beef on simple greens, and a flavorful, fresh-tasting corn side dish. A fine Piemontese red at a nice price ($34 for a Dolcetto di Diano) rounds it all out.

Mercifully, table service is much smoother, quite proficient, though the hostess sets off alarm bells early by trying to seat us at the worst table in a half-full upstairs dining room (near the kitchen door and bathrooms) before reseating us at a nicer one. With plenty of room in all waiters' sections, why do they do that?

About $110++ for a big meal with nice wine, and worth it. What a relief! Now, if they can recreate this experience on a busy weekend night, I will be completely converted.


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