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La Morra (Brookline), Cafe Cakes (Watertown) + 2 Davis Sq. desserts

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Restaurants & Bars 4

La Morra (Brookline), Cafe Cakes (Watertown) + 2 Davis Sq. desserts

Limster | Apr 17, 2006 12:06 AM

* La Morra, Brookline Village, Brookline

Subtle touch of gorgozola in the fried gnoccho (a soft rectangular block that reminded us of turnip cake); great match with the bitter grilled radicchio and fruity aged balsamic. Less successful with the steaky rather than tender octopus salad; chickpeas in in were nice though.

Lots of flavour in the saffron risotto, more or less al dente, although I prefer pearly hard centres in the grain of rice, this was a little past that. Decent shortrib with it, the sauce a bit oversalted.

Superb rack of venison (2 huge ribs worth!), succulent, full of flavour, outstanding value too at $26. A fine but not great bordatino (a loose polenta with seafood, a bit heavy on the salt). Tender veal with very sweet roasted beets.

Satisfying mascapone cheesecake, elevated by the sharp sweetness of candied orange.

* Cafe Cakes, Watertown

A fairy tale of a dessert. The milk tea pudding is as evocative, deep and aromatic as I remember. Simply magical.

* 400 Highland, Davis Sq., Somerville

Citrusy and fluffy meyer lemon tart, a creamy but otherwise inert scoop of blueberry ice cream. Not much of a flavour combination, but the tart was delicious on its own with a berry (raspberry?) sauce.

* Gargoyles on the Square, Davis Sq., Somerville

Hefty and pleasant gingerbread with great whipped cream. Crisp peach slices make for a very nice textural contrast, but are otherwise bland; ordinary blueberries (no surprise, peaches and blueberries aren't really in season).

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