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Restaurants & Bars 8

oh la la, Pierrot!

MC Slim JB | Nov 17, 200410:38 PM

First visit here is a coup. The place looks, feels, and tastes like a very good bistro that was lifted intact from a residential Parisian neighborhood and plunked down on Cambridge Street. Close-set tables, white linen, exposed brick, the usual liquor posters.

Excellent bread and good butter. Starter of assiette de cochonailles includes country pate, smoked ham, several kinds of dry pork sausages, all excellent, with mustard, dry-cured olives, and cornichons. A good green salad with a couple of little croquettes of chevre. My friend and I get the same entree: confit de canard, a crispy/fatty leg-and-thigh portion, with shreddy red cabbage and a superb potato gratin (interestingly sweetly spiced, perhaps with nutmeg).

Apps about $9, entrees $17, a carafe of very serviceable Cotes du Rhone for $18, and we have a too-generous meal for two for $70 plus tip. Wine list is mainly French, looks fairly priced. Beer and cordials, too.

Very brisk, friendly, super-efficient service (nearly all-French staff), on a night that is packed from 8pm right up to the 10pm kitchen closing. We note many good-looking dishes nearby: a special of venison, desserts we lust after but don't have room for (profiteroles, a cheese plate).

The $27 prix fixe looks like a bargain. The lunch menu is attractive, too. There are many dishes I want to come back to try: snails, moulles marinere, steak tartare and hangar steak (both only at lunch), many more.

The whole experience seems tres, tres authentique, and damned reasonable for the neighborhood and the level of the food. The best first visit to a new restaurant I've had in a long time.

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