Serious old school Italian; chef is Calabrese, cooked in Tuscany.
The chicken liver pate is powerfully flavoured, the rich taste of liver, metallic, primal. This is nature red in tooth and claw, rustic and raw. Served with lightly toast slices with bread, almost crostini like in sum. Love liver and you'll love this.
Spaghetti a la barca is a nice test of technique -- the pasta baked in parchment paper with a variety of seafood. There's is still a good bite to the spaghetti, and the clams, mussels, prawn, squid and scallops are cooked just right. Gorgeous sauce, a nice shadow of spicy heat.
Profiteroles stuffed with cream was ordinary (not particularly stiff and crisp, but not flaccid either), the chocolate sauce was flat and sickly sweet.
Solid house red. Fairly balanced, with a good brush of acidity and earth, even if it's not particularly complex.
Perhaps a touch expensive (~£40 for all of this, including tip), but very good for carefully cooked classic Italian.
I'll probably be back to try some of the simpler and more inexpensive pasta dishes.
by Jen Wheeler | At Christmas time, there are cookies galore, but true dessert lovers still crave something more substantial...