I was finally prevailed upon to try K&W Cafeteria, a institution in Chapel Hill and apparently across the South these days. Let me say I thought it was one of the worst meals of my life: heat-lamp-dried cafeteria food at its worst, reminiscent of public school lunch. What alarms me and saddens me is that the place is so popular. Time was that lower-income people had their bakeries, their butchers, their local BBQ shack or fish house or deli or pizza joint or diner, and they probably did pretty well for themselves. Now they gravitate to places like K&W, which are peddling nothing more than large quantities of cheap fat. Is there a problem here? Is there a solution to the problem? I don't know.