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Steve Drucker | Jan 30, 201606:16 AM     5

Krespo's Grill is a small repurposed building on the vaguely desolate stretch of Alpharetta Street south of Holcomb Bridge. As you head north from the Roswell Canton Street restaurant concentration it's about halfway up on the left, and easy to miss.

That's too bad, because inside is an accomplished chef sourcing and preparing some of the freshest most carefully prepared Portuguese grilled fish I have ever had. Who would of thought--not Montreal, nor Boston nor Chicago, but right here on that tumble down stretch of four lane.

That he's a chef and not just a cook is evidenced by the extreme care that comes through in every dish. Especially the head on garlic shrimp, the way he left the head and tail on but removed the shell from the body, thereby getting all the richness and flavor from the fat in the head and shells onto the plate.

And the sauce--its the Portuguese Ur/Mother sauce of New Orleans BBQ Shrimp--garlic, butter, olive oil and paprika. It KILLS every 'legendary' New Orleans preparation I've had, and I'm pretty sure I've had them all.

Then there's the Dorade, perfectly grilled with olive oil, parsley and garlic. With lightly steamed fresh broccoli and likewise perfectly cooked parsley potatoes.

Thinly sliced garlic anointed lamb chops whose potatoes au gratin accompaniment my beautiful bride and I fought over--even as peace was made over the bacalao / potato fritters that were light, well flavored and fried in fresh olive oil

it's BYOB, with startingly reasonable prices. Our $18 Dorade would likely near $30 down on Canton Street plus the cost of side dishes, a 10" oval plate mounded with Garlic Shrimp (16-20 count, fresh and head on) was $7.95. Capped off by a flan I would fight over any day.

This is a run, don't walk.

PS--anecdotal token of authenticity: Every table adjoining us hosted at least one if not a full complement of native Portuguese speakers.

As noted: run, don't walk.

Krespo's Grill
1234 Alpharetta St
Roswell, GA 30075

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