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Kozy Kitchen/Houston

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Restaurants & Bars

Kozy Kitchen/Houston

hermitt4d | Aug 25, 2002 03:49 AM

Robb Walsh wrote this one up in the Press a couple of months ago; I've been watching for some user reviews, but since there haven't been any I decided to try it myself.

Kozy Kitchen is on Lockwood, about 3 blocks south of I-10 East.

I tried the veal and sausage plate. I got none of the blackened outside bits of veal talked about by Walsh; my order was at least 50% fat and in chunks, not the strips mentioned by Walsh. I have a life long aversion to fat, since long before it became a health issue; I like marbling in a good steak, etc., but can't eat fat in chunks like this, so I wasn't able to eat much of it. I left a lot of it on the plate and still woke up the next morning with a lot of indigestion.

The sausage was something else. Very interesting; perhaps the best I've had in Houston. Finely ground, tasty, not too fatty or too spicy for me. It suggested to me a savory-meat-loaf-in-sausage-casing.

A bit of the 'vile reddish-brown sauce' in the bottle on the table helped the sausage, but I put too much of it on the modest portion of beans.

I was first introduced to mashed potato salad by a Cajun cook years ago and didn't realize until recently it wasn't just a Cajun thing. Most Q joints serve potato salad and mostly it's mediocre; this was pretty good, owing in part I think to a judicious use of pickle juice and mustard. It's the best I've had except for my Cajun friend's, who puts some non-traditional ingredients like peas in hers, and beats the p-salad at most Q joints I'm familiar with.

The portion of potato salad was generous, but otherwise portions were modest. A 2 meat plate plus canned soda and tax came to right at $9.50.

I'll be back to try more of the sausage and potato salad and may try some of the 'in and out' brisket mentioned by Walsh, but I'll avoid the veal in the future.

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