Restaurants & Bars

King Donut and Teriyaki (SEA)

The Loaf | Jul 18, 200303:11 PM    

The doughnut post below reminded me to report on this Rainier Beach joint. Face it, teriyaki ain't ezzackly haute cuisine, but if you get a hankering, this place will take care of ya. Though recently moved to this larger spot just a few yards down the street, long-time customers needen't worry: King Donut hasn't changed their business plan: Help their customers to early coronary bypass surgery. Focusing on the two things they do best, quality teriyaki and OK doughnuts, King Donut is a refreshing break from the nearby Rainier Avenue gauntlet of fast-food franchise hell.

The teriyaki--we've tried the chicken ($3.29) and beef ($3.69)--is made to order, and uses cuts of meat that are less fatty than I've run into in other teriyaki places. It also manages to taste fresher than some others, or perhaps the freshness manages to shine through because it's not masked by the usual air of rancid oil and none-too-sanitary pot cleaning methods employed in other establishments. (I ate recently at Hoki's Teriyaki Hut up on Leary Way, and all I can say is "gaaaachh"). It is accompanied by rice and a small side of salad that is, amazingly, not drenched in dressing, though it's hardly a standout. Potstickers (8 for $3.19) seem to be deep fried rather than-pan fried and are pretty mediocre. If you don't want to hang out while waiting for your food, they take phone orders.

If you've a mind for doughnuts, King Donut provides the best option in this neighborhood--which isn't saying much as the only alternatives are the bakery sections at Safeway and QFC. The usual cake, cream-filled and fritter options you'll find everywhere are distinguished only by their size--a little larger than most. Basically, they are about average, better maybe than Winchell's and others of that ilk, but no Top Pot.

If you are in the neighborhood, family-run King Donut and Teriyaki is at 9232 Rainier Ave. S. 206-721-3103.

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