I need to do a little I-hope-helpful bragging: last night, I successfully made a recognizable King Cake. Being of the simple McKenzie's school, I have tried every pseudo-brioche recipe in the Times Picayune's archives, various Junior League cookbooks, and other New Orleans sources, to no avail, and I was beginning to think I was doomed to shipped iced cinnamon swirls or Tastee simulacra sent through the mail. Then, as I browsed for flour tortillas, king cake far from my mind, in Diana Kennedy's MEXICAN COOKING, I found it--the yolky, sticky, messy dough that comes out moist and even crumbed--her Rosca de Reyes. Now, that's a king cake, as long as you pat colored sugar on it. If anyone wants the recipe, I'll type it up--but the book's a good thing to have anyway!