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[Kenilworth] Beef

Harters | Jun 14, 2012 09:07 AM

When you’re going to a gaff owned by a Michelin starred chef, you’ve an expectation of quality. And, in general, Beef delivers. It’s business is steak. With chips or salad. There’s a few other mains for the steakophobes and a handful of offerings in the starter and dessert listings.

Good bread is quickly brought to you (chargeable). We scoffed that and ordered another basket. Prawn cocktail was a good version of the classic – generous portion of prawns, crisp lettuce, punchy sauce.

I fancied the crab, guacamole and spicy peanuts. But I quickly found it read better than it ate. A bland and boring guacamole still managed to overpower the delicate flavour of the crab, although the nuts did give and interesting and welcome texture contrast.

Needless to say, we both went with steaks. One, an 8ox sirloin, more well done than the requested medium and with a good handful of salad leaves (although the dressing was pretty tasteless). The other, a 12oz rump was really good meat, cooked medium rare, with some excellent chips. Really excellent chips. Béarnaise sauce was disappointing – another aspect of the meal that was simply underflavoured, with hardly a hnt of tarragon. A side dish of garlic mushrooms was pleasant enough, even if the garlic was muted.

There was good coffee to finish. They have a really cute offering here – a coffee and a mini-version of the desserts, described as a bonbon. No more than a couple or so spoonfuls, but areally nice idea when you don’t feel you could have managed a full dessert. Vanilla ice cream with Armagnac soaked prunes was really lovely, although not exactly an ideal accompaniment to coffee (but you try telling that to my partner).

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