At one time it seems the buzz was all about seasonal cooking, chefs rising at rediculously wee hours to sniff out the best seasonal produce and fish at the marts before the competition, and fashioning their daily menus accordingly. In a slightly more pedestrian & much les aggressive fashion, that's the way we strive to choose food for our own table too, but our expertise is obviously far beneath that of celebrity chefs.
It's true that nowadays there are fresh peaches in winter, oysters in summer and asparagus & tomatoes year round. Still, there's something special about local vine ripened heirloom tomatoes in August, summer peaches picked at their prime, Copper River salmon in Spring & Dungeness crab plucked from cool northern waters in January, for example.
SO IYO, which restaurants in greater LA best excel at preparing and serving 'cuisine de saison', i.e., menus designed to showcase & exploit the very special bounties that each season brings?