OK - I've been living in LA for eight years now, and I forgot how good the hole-in-the-wall places in New York Chinatown are. There must be some here somewhere. I just went to Great New York Noodletown on Bowery a few weeks ago (twice in the same weekend) and had some amazing roast duck, pea shoots, dumpling soup, etc.
I don't expect this part to be available here - but each time I went it was about 2 AM and the place was packed. Not that I'll do that here, but it seems to be a good indicator . . .