I'm heading to Bali for a week and will be in Ubud for a couple of days, then to the northern coast area (not sure where, maybe Lovina, but I'm open to suggestions). I'm staying FAR AWAY from Kuta. I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to go and what to do, as everyone keeps saying Bali's basically ruined, but I can't believe there's nothing for the intrepid traveler and chowhound. Suggestions?? Thanks!!