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Input Sought on Troisgros' "La Table du Lancaster", Paris

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Restaurants & Bars

Input Sought on Troisgros' "La Table du Lancaster", Paris

cabrales | Feb 16, 2004 06:14 PM

As reported some time ago, M Troisgros will begin supervising a new restaurant in the Hotel Lancaster, Paris (8th arr.). The restaurant is expected to open at the end of this month (between Feb 27 aqnd Mar 2). Could members living in Paris provide available information on this restaurant?

According to Gastronomie, the restaurant will be both elegant and more accessible in price. The hotel overall has been remodeled. Chef Troisgros proposes dishes that are simplified and purified, which will be around "chapters" like "Espirt of the Tomato", "Sparks of Lemon and Other Citrus Fruit", "Edge from Condiments and Spices" or "The Vibrancy of Wine and the Effect of Vinegars". How exciting, and from one of my preferred chefs :) The integrating theme will be acidity, which is also the theme in M Troisgros' book "La Cuisine Acidulee".

Examples of dishes: A salad of spaghetti with bottarga; melba of scallops (this is a dish M Troisgros has served at his three-starred restaurant in Roanne with either (a) black truffles and seaweed called wakame, or (b) black truffles and some vegetable leaf); tartar of John Dory and a ball of celery (this is an adaptation of the three-starred restaurant's dish of tartar of sea bass with celeri, which actually utilizes some celeryroot dices as well as celery and has a soy-based, nuanced sauce); a skewer of crayfish with kumquats (skewers of crayfish can be found at Troisgros' three-star, including with cherry tomatoes and prunes; another recent variation is crayfish interspersed among various baby veggies).

Other dishes (not patterned after dishes at the three-star) are: steamed fennel and grey crevettes; breast of chicken with an agreto of Vino Santo (a wine vinegar) or whiting with hazelnuts and rosemary, shallots and sherry (possibly intended to be sherry vinegar).

Troisgros clarifies he is not aiming for three stars in Paris. "It is important to attract a clientele that does not respond that much to Michelin stars. My goal is to convince a clientele like that." (Huh? What?) "And, of course, to tempt clients to come to Roanne". :)

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