No visit to Bali would be complete without a taste of "babi guling", roast suckling pig, Balinese-style. Our Balinese foodie friends reacted in horror when I suggested going to the (in)famous Ibu Oka for lunch yesterday. "Too touristy!", "Full of foreigners!", chorused my friends - blissfully forgetting that (1) I am a tourist, and (2) I am foreign myself :-D
Anyway, after a bout of shopping and art-buying in Ubud, we were taken to this very local eatery called Babi Guling Ibu Dayu, a tiny spot which can probably fit 20, if we all held our collective breath. A smattering exchange between our Balinese host & the waitress and plates of roast suckling pig were served to us, each with slivers of succulent meat, a couple of strips of crisp pork skin and a hot freshly-fried pork-rib. A side-bowl of soup with pork-bone was served on the side. It was delicious, different from Chinese, Filipino or Spanish preparations but very, very good in its own way. The seasoning and spices were subtle - coriander, Indon bay leaf (daun salam), candlenuts (buah keras), lemongrass, lime, garlic, shallots, shrimp paste (petis).
The crisp pork-skin reminded me of Filipino pork chicharon, shatteringly crisp and biscuity. The soup was murky & tinged slightly yellow from the fresh turmeric used for marinating the pork - very nice as a sauce to moisten and flavor the steamed white rice, cooked from padi harvested from the surrounding rice terraces. Very memorable meal, and nary a foreign face (except ours) in sight in the busy surrounding neighborhood.
Babi Guling Ibu Dayu
Jalan Perempatan Lodtunduh