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Ideya, "Latin Bistro," SoHo: a Burke and Wells Review (long)


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Ideya, "Latin Bistro," SoHo: a Burke and Wells Review (long)

Peter Wells | Feb 10, 2007 03:02 PM

"How long a wait, Peter?"
"Two and a half hours."
"Blue Ribbon is very popular, Gary."
"But it's almost eleven at night!"
"I'm not waiting nearly three hours, let's go somewhere else."

We walk down West Broadway.

"Not in the mood."
"How about pasta, lots of Italian places."
"Ooh, hey, a 'latin bistro,' looks interesting!"
"What's it called?"
"Ideya. Seems friendly, full but not packed, music but not pounding, price is right, let's try it!"

We're seated right away.

"Decor is nothing fancy, but look at these drinks."
"'Best mojito in NYC,' eh? I doubt it."
"We're not driving, we live here now, go have one! I'm having a virgin drink, a pineapple baditos."
"What's a baditos?"
"Dunno. But it looks fruity and tropical and frothy. I'll skip the rum."

Drinks arrive.

"This *is* a darn good mojito!"
"Oh yeah? Try this."
"Oh man, Peter, your baditos wins. It's what an Orange Julius wishes it was."
"Best pina colada I've had in ages, only it's not."
"I love how you get an old wine bottle full of water."
"I love these plantain chips! Totally try one."
"Light, crispy, golden, salty but not too salty, you're right! And they're way better with the salsa."
"I don't like salsa, Gary, you know that. It's too hot for me."
"You'll like this one. Try it."
"It's...fresh! Crispy, not burning, flavorful!"
"I saw on the menu, they sell it by the jar."

Appetizers arrive.

"What'd you get?"
"Tuna. They call it 'Atun Dominicano'--it's seared tuna that's been marinated first in anise. This cocoanut rum sauce is a fine accent. It's very good. Not killer, but good."
"Taste this duck, Gary."
"Yeah, its a braised duck leg in an orange and chocolate sauce, matched with stewed onions and leeks. It's called 'pato de chocolate' and it totally rules."
"Wow, tender, falls off the bone, rich, citrus bright, deep with the hint of cocoa, very nice!"

Entrees arrive.

"This chicken in rice is okay. 'Puerto Rican-style rice'? I suppose. It's good, fresh, not greasy, but I'm not knocked out."
"You should have had the braised short ribs, Gary. I win again. Check this out: 'Costillas de reyes,' braised beef short ribs, roasted sweet potato, beet salad and orange gravy."
"Orange again? Wasn't there orange in your duck appetizer?"
"Yeah, but this is different, and it's exceptional! The meat is tender, and has that amazing mouth feel you only get from gelatin. The vinegar in the pickled beets is a perfect offset."
"Alright, you take the prize. But I'm going to win dessert."

Desserts arrive.

"You'll have a hard time beating this, Gary: churros with hot cocoa."
"Forget it, I win."
"But these churros are crispy outside, tender as a daydream inside!"
"I win."
"The cocoa isn't sweet, it's spicy and warming!"
"I still win."
"Gary, stop saying that, this comes with MINTED whipped cream, the perfect foil to the fried dough, and again, not too sweet!"
"I win anyway. Try this flan."
"Flan? You win with flan?"
"Try it."
"Oh my god. It's the best flan I've had since...since...
"Since Gordon's home made at the San Francisco Chowhound gathering in Golden Gate park!"
"But that was the greatest flan EVER!"
"This is close. It's creamy, not too sweet, not too eggy, dark but not bitter."
"They took the custard to just that right spot!"
"Must have pulled in still undercooked and let carryover finish it."
"Hard enough to do at home, let alone in a busy kitchen. Yes. Okay. You win. But not by much!"
"I like places where it's hard to tell who ordered the best thing, because it's all so good."
"Absolutely! This 'latin bistro' is a winner. Good food, a few standouts, no real weak spots--"
"And right-priced. Tip brings us to about $90 for two, but that was three courses each, and drinks."
"We have to remember to come back sometime! Nice location too, in Soho."
"What's the address again?"

"Latin Bistro"
349 West Broadway
New York
phone: (212) 625-1441 (delivery)
Open 7 days

--Peter Wells

A Burke & Wells Review

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