Just got back from Hvar, Croatia - a wonderful Mediterranian island in the Adriatic. Vineyards, olive tree groves, pomegranite trees, fig trees, the blue green Adriatic, royal palm trees....dalmation ham, fresh fish, mussels, clams, scampi, lobster, local wines, local olive oil....
tel 021-741-400; mob 098-748-695
Petra Hektorovica 5
Located directly across from the Golden Shell - the third floor is open to
the sky. The food is well prepared - had fish pate with smoked salmon,
octopus salad and spaghetti buzara - ordera bottle of white Zlatan Otok. I
was a bit jet lagged but thought everything was quite good. Cool hip music
played discreetly in the background.
Petra Hektorovica 8
The owner is a member of Slow Food. Started off with dalmation ham and
goat cheese in olive oil, for entree a steak stuffed with goat cheese and
capers with a side order of swiss chard and potatoes - ordered a bottle of
Zlatan Otok red. Everything was well prepared The owner is very personable.
I realized half way back across the Atlantic that dumplings on the menu
probably meant ravioli (doh!). Would have like to have gotten back here for
another meal - next year.
Palmizana, Pakleni Otoci
tel 385-021-718-231; mob 098-168-3377
Fresh grilled scampi, dalmation ham and a bottle of Luviji (white). Had a
couple glasses of Prosec for dessert. Food that is somewhat challenging to eat
is always an adventure for me - am I suppose to eat this or more
importantly, am I NOT suppose to eat that? Also getting the hands messy
(ahh the puritan ethic). Everything was satisfying and the setting over
looking the cove, underneath pine and fig trees is very tranquil.
Vl. Dinko Kovacevic
tel. 021-742-036; mob. 091-548-5845
This restaurant only serves what I would call starters (almost tapas size
portions). The care, attention and pride of their products is obvious -
almost everything I had was superb. Marinated anchovies, Pag cheese,
octopus salad (with chick peas mixed in adding a nice contrast of textures),
dalmation ham (smooth and buttery), dalmation bacon ( a bit thicker and
chewier), the house wine, figs stuffed with almonds and soaked in spirits,
the orange and walnut liquors - excellent. The only thing that failed to win
me over was the stuffed bread (almost like a stuffed foccia). A small,
intimate cellar restaurant. I met a couple from Venice my second time here.
Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar
tel 021-765-829; mob 091-573-63-76
Recommended in Footprint. Had the house white, some dalamtion ham, spaghetti
with lobster ( the tomatoes, capers, garlic, white wine - wonderful) and the
plate of fresh fried girice (little fish which could be eaten whole). The
owner told me the best months are may, June, September and October -
july and August are too busy.
tel. 021 -742-850
Situated about a block off the main square and near Hektorovica unfinished
house - this is one of the more upscale restaurants. The food quality is
excellent. I did the chef's recommendations - hvar sampler plate of fish
pate-octopus salad- marinated anchovies, fruta di mare risotto, fish fillet
w/roasted vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. For desert - a
couple slices of fresh succulent watermelon. Try and get a table outside
along the walkway - the lights swaying in the breeze, people passing by -
makes for a wonderful setting. Finished with some homemade prosec - which
was a deep ruby red. I had my last dinner here - lobster spaghetti (140 kn),
other white fish (120 kn), grilled vegetable (25 kn) a 1/2 liter of house
white (30 kn) - once again a beautiful peaceful setting - late at night I
had the walkway to myself.
Luci Antun Tudor, Hvar
Located near Golden Shell and Konoba Luna. Had spaghetti fruta de
mare, grilled squid and a liter of the house white. The grilled squid
Two Fisherman (Dua Ribara)
located on Fabrika; between Stelle di mare and Hotel Adriatic;
along the harbor's edge
Great view of the town and harbor - try a get a table during sunset. Ordered
a plate of dalmation ham, locally made cheese and a liter of house white.
Decide to try the lamb which was okay - maybe a little over cooked. But the
view is great. The lemon ice cream was a nice a finish.
Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac
tel 385-21-635-911; mob 098-423-003
Recommended in Footprint. Had lobster salad and salted sardines (with a slice
of onion and some olive oil - delicious) and the green spaghetti fruta de
mare (scampi, mussels,, shrimps, clams). If you're in Bol this is a good choice.
Ulica sv. Marka, Hvar
Located to the left of the cathedral. I stumbled upon this place my first jet
lagged night in Hvar after having two bottles of wine and had a helluva time
finding it again. The huge patio is under a canopy of grape vines with
clusters of grapes within arms reach. The restaurant seems to cater more to
large groups and families. Tried a hvar plate (sampling of ham, pag cheese,
sardine and seafood salad) and carpet shells ( clams - not as plump as
mussels but briny and plentiful.
tel / fax 385-021-767-019
After driving through a very long dark tunnel and making my way down a steep
twisting road I found this restaurant on the south side of the island. A
fisherman was delivering a freshly caught fish to the owner/chef. I started
with gnochhi with gorgonzola (50 kn) and a fillet from the freshly caught
fish with zuchinni + potatoes (70 kn) and a liter of the house white (20
kn). There are also rooms for rent - if you're looking for a true get away on the
island the south side is the place to go.
boat taxi - Mice Domancic
The Blue Grotto had been canceled so I decided to take a boat taxi (50 kn) to
a private cove, which just happened to have a restaurant owned by the boat
taxi driver (eating there is optional). While I swam and laid out, MIchael
started up a wood fire in the grill. I had ham(20 kn), a whole grilled fish
(180 kn) and the house white (10kn) - with tip: 250 kn. The setting - the
tranquility - the food - the boat ride - a perfect meal
8.50 kn - 1 liter of mineral water
8 kn - 2 scoops of gelatto / ice cream
300 kn - scooter rental for 4 to 12 hrs
6 kn - single espresso
15 kn - 1/2 kilo of dried figs
10 kn - admission to the fortress
55 kn - roll o f 100 ASA slide film (ow!)
40 kn - a bottle of homemade rekija
40 kn - boat taxi to Palminzana
150 kn - boat excursion to Bol, includes lunch
250 kn - boat excursion to the Blue and Green Caves and Vis
2 - 3 kn - postcard
12 kn - glass of Prosec
300 kn - 1st class whole grilled fish
500 kn - 1 kilo lobster, grilled
40 kn - 1 liter of house wine
100 - 210 kn - for bottle of wine ordered in restaurant
22 kn - fast catamaran from Hvar to Split (a little over 1 hr)
33 kn - slow ferry from Split to Hvar
30 kn - Croatia Airline bus from Split Airport to Town Terminal
5 kn - to store luggage for 2 hrs while in Split
30 kn - girice ( small fried fish)
50 - 70 kn - Dalmatian ham
60 kn - risotto "frutti de mare"
120 kn - spaghetti with lobster
($1 US dollar = 6.32 Croatian kuna 09/25/03)
please let me know if you would like me to post my trip report....