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Housemade salumi and antipasti at Bovolo, Healdsburg

Melanie Wong | Sep 5, 200503:19 AM

The butcher's antipasti plate (small, $13.75) was my Sunday supper. What I really was after was the salumi. Bovolo co-owner/chef, John Stewart, who trained under Armandino Batali, breaks down whole hogs and cures his own. The butcher's selection came with two kinds, a coarse salami and a mild sweet coppa. They were both excellent. The salami was spiced with a tiny bit of fennel seed and peppercorn and had a complex aged flavor to it. The coppa was very tender and fresh tasting.

The rest of the plate was no slouch either. Goat cheese balls rolled in parsley, excellent tiny marinated olives, roasted sweet peppers, young asiago drizzled with Da Vero olive oil, and roasted garlic cloves, all to be mopped up with thin slices of Downtown bakery baguette. The white beans had a slight resistance and then melted into creaminess. Lightly marinated and coarse cut chunks of beets added a tart-sweet note to the plate. The thick slices of creamy roasted eggplant in a deconstructed caponata was my favorite of the vegetables.

Yet, it's the cured meats that I crave. I'll be back soon for more of the salumi selection.



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