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Holstein Wiener Schnitzel at Locke Ober

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Holstein Wiener Schnitzel at Locke Ober

C. Simon | Aug 7, 2003 05:30 PM

I didn't expect to be a big Locke Ober fan, but a meal at the soothing bar there this week proved me wrong.

This was my first experience with Holstein Wiener Schnitzel. It was outstanding.

The harmonious effect of the veal's accompaniments was magnificent.

The briny tang of the capers.

The understated "meatiness" of the veal.

The pleasantly airy and slight greasiness of the breadcrumb crust.

The indulgent richness of the egg yolk that poured itself over the meat.

The salty zing of the anchovies.

And, the perfectly prepared handmade noodles.

Perfection.

Well, almost.

My only quibble is that the portions of all of the accompaniments were too small. During the second half of the meal, I dearly missed the accompaniments that I had gobbled up during the first.

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