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Restaurants & Bars 10

Hix, Soho, London

limster | Jan 1, 2010 03:16 PM

Surprisingly, our favourite dish was identified by my buddy as German -- Heaven and Earth (Himmel und Ääd), a beautiful combination of mashed potato and apple, the heavenly sweet-sour of the apple contrasting the creamy richness blood pudding, earthy without being metallic.

Very good smoked salmon (good supple texture), the even smoky flavour supported by the salty salmony flavour. Have had significantly better smoked salmon, but this was excellent nevertheless. Sat well on a dense but somehow almost fluffy Irish soda bread.

Rich flavours of the shell in a full bodied seafood soup, with a wonderful boozy shadow of cider. Intoxicating.

Cod's tongues were tasty, but served a bigger role as a vehicle for the aromatic toasty hazelnuts, and a gloss of fragrant oil and chopped (what I though was parsley or some green). Good supporting role from mashed cauliflower, carrying the oils and nuts and greens.

Smoked haddock still flaked delicately into big moist pieces, rounded off by a good smooth mash with coarse threads of cabbage, sharp and sweet, and finished with the golden yolk of a poached egg.

Well tuned, and fairly refined but honest straightforward cooking. Would love to go back to try more. Slightly pricey (mains averaging ~£17 iirc), but worth it imho.

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