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Hinterland, Milwaukee -- creative and delicious

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Restaurants & Bars 3

Hinterland, Milwaukee -- creative and delicious

kathryn | Nov 29, 2011 04:15 PM

Dined here with the in-laws over Thanksgiving weekend, and I was very pleased with my meal. This was probably our 4th or 5th visit over the last few years, and each time has been excellent.

Our party shared a number of appetizers. The foie gras mousse was excellent, rich, and creamy and served in a tiny jar, alongside a jar of jam, and we also added the pork rillettes (also served in a tiny jar). Our group polished off the jars pretty quickly, as well as the pickled vegetable salad.

I thought the duck confit was excellent. A generously large duck leg served over a cold rice noodle salad, sesame-soy vinaigrette, giving it a bit of a French-Chinese flavor. Tender dark meat, with the noodles gave it a bit of zing. I actually could have eaten this for the rest of the night.

We also enjoyed the wood-fire grilled strauss veal heart, served with fluffy buttermilk biscuits, a gooey poached egg, and lots of veal hollandaise. The veal heart was cooked to about medium, and sliced, like steak. If not one of the world's best renditions of eggs benedict, certainly one of the top five, as all the components really went together well.

For my main, I had the wood-fire grilled whole rushing waters trout served with a warm couscous salad, walnuts, golden raisins, celery root purée. The whole trout was cooked perfectly, with a nicely crispy skin, and the head was left attached so that diners could enjoy the tender cheek meat. I also really liked the couscous salad with golden raisins and walnuts. A good combination of textures and flavors -- sweet, nutty, savory. These much have been the biggest couscous grains I had ever seen. Very flavorful and with a nice texture.

I also tried my husband's wood-fire grilled new zealand elk NY strip, with brussels sprout leaves, maitake mushrooms, and herb gnocchi, which was good, and cooked perfectly to medium-rare, but definitely on the heavy side.

We finished with one order of the warm baked apple and spruce tip turnover served with crème fraîche ice cream for the table. The turnover was served more like a small pie in a ramekin, with a crust topping. Delicious and with only a hint of spruce in the finish (our server suggested that the taste was similar to rosemary and this seemed about right). Excellent, creamy creme fraiche ice cream, too.

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