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high-cocoa solids chocolate -- overrated?


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high-cocoa solids chocolate -- overrated?

Ruth Lafler | Jun 1, 2005 04:38 PM

In a discussion on the SF board, poster "heidipie" wrote:

"I think this current fixation on high-percentage cocoa solids and single-source beans is producing a lot of lousy chocolate. It can't be merely that the prevailing flavor palate isn't to my taste, because I've been a chocolate obsessive for a long time and like a lot of good serious chocolate. It's that the chocolate world is being infected with a "kick it up a notch" attitude, at the expense of finesse."

I have to agree. Chocolate is wonderful because it has so many pleasing characteristics. I find that high-cocoa solids chocolate often are often missing some of these. One of the most common "misses" is mouthfeel -- they're just too dry. Others are simply out of balance: a high percentage of cocoa solids leaves very little margin for error in mediating the bitterness of the cocoa with sugar or cocoa butter.

I want my chocolate to be lucious, not dry and bitter. Some high-cocoa solid chocolates manage to do that, but since they've become trendy, there are too many of them out there trying to ride the marketing trend, not make great chocolate.

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