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Doug Pepper | May 25, 1999 09:28 PM

I love herring. Mind you, it wasn't always that way.
My father, somewhat of a herring fanatic, tried
valiantly to have me eat it but I resisted as, I
guess, most squeamish kids would (herring is not
exactly kid-friendly, in smell ,taste, consistency,
you name it). And kids don't usually drink frozen
vodka shots so there's nothing to wash it down with.
But with age, and a refining palatte, I came not only
to accept it but to search for the best of it.
Needless to say, the vodka shots came naturally.
Anyway, I quite like Russ and Daughters' herring in
lemon and ginger, also their matjes, even their
herring in mustard sauce. I like going there, talking
herring, ogling the clean cases that house the stuff
and its accompaniments. I've made my own pickled
herring from a recipe in Saveur, sending away for the
raw material from Scandia Foods on the net. It went
well and gave me an appreciation for what goes into
the process of pickling it and making up a marinade
that suits it. So I ask, besides Aquavit, where the
herring is pretty superb, where else might I find
sublime examples of this fish? I'm fairly new in the
city but I'm sure I've only discovered the tip of the

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