Whatever happened to the Biscuit Tortoni?

Question

As a kid, growing up in New York in the 50's, I really enjoyed an Italian dessert that I'm sure was called a Biscuit Tortoni (maybe 'biscuit' spelling is wrong?). It was a relatively small paper cup of ice cream (vanilla or maybe almond-flavored vanilla, possibly with some candied fruit mixed in?) with chopped nuts on top. I never see it here in California, none of current friends have ever heard of it, and a Google search produced only one Italian specialty merchants who appears to sell something by the same name.
 
Is anyone familiar with it enough to know if it's really gone from the scene, and for any particular reason?? ..... or did I just happen to grow up in the only part of the world where it was ever in favor?

Answer

You're not the only one who remembers (I too grew up in NYC in the 50's), but I recall it as the "bisque" tortoni. At the time, there were basically two Italian desserts I liked; one was the tortoni and the other, the multi-colored spumoni. They seem to have been upstaged by the ubiquitous tira mi su.

Answer

The last time I made Biscuit Tortoni was perhaps 30 years ago, I can't locate the recipe. However doing an extensive search I found this interesting article NY Times 2009/02/15,
1898:Tortoni as well as an intersting article about the perhaps true history of Neopolitan Biscuit Tortoni. Worth reading.

Answer

My mom used to make that, but I grew up 20 years later on the opposite coast. Then again, My dad is Italian and from MA, so maybe it was something he liked. I remember it as more of a whipped cream based semifreddo type thing. I know I have a recipe somewhere.

Answer

It's still happening. Next time you're in New Orleans go to Angelo Brocato's on Carrolton Ave. They have a lot more homemade Italian desserts as well. It has been her more than a hundred years. 

There are a good many recipes in old Southern Junior League Cookbooks but this is my favorite from Camille Glenn's Old Fashioned Christmas Cookbook, By the way, anything Camille Glenn wrote is first-rate. A truly neglected treasure trove is her Heritage of Southern Cooking. No glossy pages, no snazzy pics with overstyled food. Who needs pictures anyway.
Friday, January 20, 2012

BISCUIT TORTONI
Inspired by Angelo Brocato's

Use small dispolsable aluminum muffin cups for serving this to a crowd. It was named for Tortoni, one of the creators of ice cream in Italy. It was originally made with crushed macaroons instead of almonds. It can still be made that way if you prefer, or with Amaretti cookies-decadent indeed.

3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
5 large egg yolks
2 cups whipping cream
3 Tbsp. brandy, Amaretto, or cognac
1/2 cup coarsely chopped lightly toasted almonds

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and boil until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is clear, about 2 minutes.

Beat the egg yolks with an electric mixer until they turn a shade lighter and fall in ribbons from a spoon, about 2 minutes. Pour the hot sugar syrup into the egg yolks in a steady stream, beating constantly. Continue to beat until the mixture is cool.

Whip the cream and fold it into the egg mixture. Add the brandy and 1/4 cup of the almonds; blend thoroughly. Spoon the mixture into small desert bowls or cups and sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup almonds. Remove the tortoni from the freezer 15 to 20 minutes before you plan to serve it so it will soften.

Serves 10 to 12

Variation:
Crumble 4 or 5 macaroons or up to 6 Amaretti cookies and add them to the mixture instead of the first 1/4 cup of almonds, however, use the other 1/4 clmonds not macaroons, to garnish the tops.

Answer

And if you make it to Brooklyn, try it at Spumoni Gardens. But only after you have their Sicilian pizza and eggplant parmigiana.

Answer

I don't know but I've had an itch to have one lately too! 

I once had a recipe for it but I haven't been able to find that either. 

I'll watch this topic and hope someone comes up with a good one.

Answer

On another thread about disappeared foods I lamented a couple years ago about the disappearance of Tortoni as dessert in Ital-American restaurants. Growing up in southern Connecticut and dining regularly in NYC it was a standard in the 50s and 60s.
This year I finally ran into it again at an old school red sauce joint called Mario's Place across from the railroad station in Westport, CT.

I've been back three times for the food and especially for the Tortoni.

There is an excellent recipe in Arthur Schwartz book on NY Food.

Answer

Your description reminds me of spumoni not tortuni (different ice cream flavor base vanilla vs rum)

I have eaten spumoni in California

Answer

Biscuit Tortoni of Bisquit Tortoni if you wish can be made at home. The NY Times has a great recipe -Recipe Redux - 1898 - tortoni- NY Times.com - The New York Times, this also gives their "history" of the Tortoni. You may also find another story and recipe in the book " Ice Creams, Sorbets and Gelati" The Definitive Guide, Caroline & Robin Weir. I have used the recipe from the New York Times and it comes close to the original I remember. The commerical product I have tried in various restaurants and bakeries is a poor imitation of the original and not worth the calories.

Answer

I got married in 1967 and thought I was a fabulous cook. I could make two dishes: chicken cacciatore and beef stroganoff. People were so impressed--but I had no clue how to make a plain pot of pinto beans or a pot roast. 48 years later, I can! But my go-to dessert with my two star dishes was always Bisque Tortoni--desperately searching for my original recipe. It was easy and had toasted coconut and pistachios. Still looking!

Answer

Here is a link to the Time's recipe:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/15/magazine/15food-t-001.html?fta=y

Answer

Menupages has a 'find a food' search. This is what came up for a NYC search for tortoni. http://www.menupages.com/restaurants/food/tortoni/all-areas/all-neighborhoods/all-cuisines/

This article includes a recipe for tortoni.
http://www.capitalnewyork.com/article/culture/2012/06/6007422/lost-foods-new-york-city-biscuit-tortoni

Answer

I grew up in Staten Island and they were my favorite. A store called Sedutto's sold them. Absolutely the best.

Answer

Growing up in San Francisco, in the 1960's there was an ice cream we used to buy in the store called Bisque Tortoni. It was delicious! I was young, so I have no idea what brand it was, and it wasn't around very long. probably just one of the specialty ice creams companies produce now and then.

Answer

Desserts and other dishes pass in and out of fashion. I remember Bisque Tortoni as often being on restaurant dessert menus but haven't seen it in years. Another one I have run into in cookbooks is Zuyder Zee, a custard pie baked with a crumb crust, that apparently was de mode a generation or two ago. When I was a child (a long time ago) prune whip actually appeared as a dessert but I doubt anyone would even eat it now. And I can't remember when I have seen lemon meringue pie on a restaurant menu although home bakers still make it. Last week I saw jelly roll in a bakery, first time in years. Rhubarb is making a comeback. Things come and go.

Answer

The Mario Restaurant at 644 Vanderbuilt Motor Pkwy in Hauppauge, NY serves an excellent Biscuit Tortoni.

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Whatever happened to the Biscuit Tortoni?

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