I was surprised to read W. Grimes' review of Craft. Not necessarily because he liked it, but because it represented something of an about-face from his previous sniffing about comfort food. He described Craft's food in terms of it's simplicity and you could sense his mouth watering as he remembered the dishes he described (e.g., "Roasted Nantucket Bay scallops, nearly the size of small muffins, coated in some simple pan juices.") Other quotes: "Nothing fancy was going on. I had no right to feel as happy as I did." and "Sometimes simple merely satisfies." My mouth watered too as I read his descriptions.
After his previous condescension toward comfort food, I could only laugh and feel a bit smug. It's fine by me if he actually likes simple food but I hope he applies this new sensibility in future reviews. If you're going to wax rhapsodic over a porterhouse, don't dismiss people who will go out of their way for this simple pleasure. Sometimes simple merely satsfies, but sometimes so much more.