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Great Sunday dinner at Eva

ozhead | Jun 25, 201206:32 PM

I've been to Eva for their Sunday "family style" dinner a number of times, but dinner on 6/24/12 was the best I've ever had there. Every dish was a revelation.

Salad was Gioia burrata, whipped to the consistency of soft whipped cream, served with dressed arugula plus grilled peaches (sweet) and plums (tart). An inspired dish in every way.

Next came a cream-augmented bouillabaisse, with mussels, clams, and finfish chunks, plus chunks of fingerling potatoes, served with about a quarter of a crusty French bread baguette right out of the oven. This was not a traditional Marseilles style bouillabaisse, but a wonderful riff on the tradition. Good to the very last drop.

Next came a roasted chicken roulade, served on a bed of sweet corn, cream and Parmesan, with garlic and crisped mushrooms. Another inspired dish, especially the creamed corn base.

Dessert was stated to be cheesecake, but what it actually turned out to be was "cheesecake": a ball of that same amazing whipped burrata, very lightly sweetened and rolled in finely ground graham-cracker crumbs, served with a compote of farmers-market blueberries. Our waiter had told us earlier that because they had so many reservations that evening they would not be able to bring seconds on any of the courses (which, in my experience, they usually do), but he did manage to bring us another round of dessert -- and a good thing, too.

For $39 including unlimited wine (we had a very good Mendocino County sauvignon blanc, then switched to an excellent Sicilian red table wine -- variety unstated, but big and fruity and delicious with the bouillabaisse) this was the bargain meal of the year. Mark Gold, the owner and chef, was in the kitchen, and it showed in every dish. Just a great meal; I can't compliment it enough.

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