I would highly recommend Nguyen Xuan Quyyn as a food guide in Ha Noi. Tom Sietsema, the Washington Post food critic, dubbed him the Mighty Quinn and he can be found online at Quynh@vietnamnowtravel. I was reluctant to eat lots of raw vegetables in Viet Nam and Mr. Quinn didn't lead us astray. He customized a tour for us, mostly in Old Town and the French Quarter. We walked the entire way but if you prefer he will arrange transport. Nearly all the places he took us didn't have a Westerner in sight. We ended up replicating the trip over the next few days. He has excellent idiomatic English and when during breakfast he gave us an etymological explanation of pho I knew we we had happened upon a great resource. I can't say enough good things about him. Great depth and breadth. We had a couple of kids with us who are adventurous eaters and they had a good time. You'd be hard pressed to find a better guide. Like Viet Nam in general, his fees were very reasonable. My favorite meal, which we felt morally obligated to sample several times, cost a grand 7 USD for 5 with beer in a place I would have walked past without a second glance.