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Three Great Lunches at Wood Tavern in Oakland


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Three Great Lunches at Wood Tavern in Oakland

Morton the Mousse | Apr 22, 2007 12:06 PM

After a weekend of heavy eating, the last thing I need on Sunday afternoon is the "death by brunch" of pancakes, hash and benedict. This is a big part of why I love Wood Tavern - they serve Sunday lunch, not an egg on the menu. Specifically, they do the "holy trinity" of lunch - soup, salad and sandwiches - incredibly well.

The soup of the day is consistently my favorite thing on the menu. The chef really understands balance. My first soup was an Italian barley soup with a wonderful tomato broth, not too tinny, not too acidic; perfectly cooked barley with a slight snap that then dissolved in my mouth; and a delicious, house made sausage. Surprisingly, the sausage served its purpose without dominating the flavors in the soup. My second soup was a cream of asparagus, my favorite of the three. It tasted of spring and had a lovely, silky texture. Mrs. Mousse and I were fighting over the last bite. Finally, I had the minestrone - good, but the least impressive of the set. The broth was delicious, with scraps of pork giving it just the right kick, and the vegetables were cooked perfectly, but the garbanzos were too firm. Regardless, with two fantastic soups, and one that was merely good, I can recommend the soup without hesitation.

If dining alone, order the cup of soup and grilled cheese. I know, it's just about the most mundane thing you could get - soup, sandwich and a mixed green salad, but Wood Tavern gets it right. The grilled cheese is on lightly toasted focaccia, the cheese melted just the right amount and the sandwich has an herb spread that adds to the flavors nicely. Dipping the grilled cheese in the Italian soup made for pure comfort food. The mixed greens salad was not just an afterthought - the greens were impecabble fresh and well dressed. At $10 for a satisfying and well balanced lunch, this is a dish I will order again and again.

The entree sized salads are also consistently good. It's always nice to find a place that takes entree size salads seriously, so often salads are portioned as starters. The Chopped Romaine is a menu standard, with slight variations every week. The first time it was a Greek Salad with chickpeas, feta and olives. Again, I was impressed with the balance. So often, Greek Salads overload on the add ons, and you're left with a cheesy, salty, oily mess, digging for the pieces of lettuce. This salad had just the right ingredient ratios to make it refreshing and satisfying.

The best of my three salads was the house smoked wild salmon and frisee. I'm really impressed that they were busy smoking fish during wild salmon season when the restaurant wasn't even open yet! Wonderful smoked fish, with a fresh horseradish dressing that gave it a nice zing.

Have I mentioned the house made charcuterie? I know, it's like they designed the menu just to make me happy. It's a simple but good selection of rabbit rillettes and smoked duck breast. The rillettes is my favorite of the two - a mellow, rabbit flavor, and just the right amount of fat. The duck breast is cut razor thin and not too smoky.They serve both the rabbit and the duck with crostini, whole grain mustard, and surprisingly sweet, wine pickled onions. At only $5 for one charcut order, it's awfully hard to resist.

Most of the lunch menu is $10 and under, which allows me to try a few different things without breaking the bank. I haven't really tried the "Heartier" dishes like the seafood stew, and lamb sugo top out in the mid teens. The pork belly was well cooked, but I just can't seem to enjoy Niman Ranch pork (the flavor of the pork contrasted with the perfect order of Kurobuta pork belly I had in LA last weekend). I also haven't tried the hamburger, because they use a hard bun (though the fries look great) or the Rueben, because they use Niman Ranch pastrami - bleh!

They have a full bar with good draft beer including Hennipen. Yes, I will definitely be back.

Somehow, I managed to eat here three weekends in a row. They just do everything right - it's the type of food I love and often crave on Sundays, at a price point I don't feel guilty about. The service has been incredibly friendly, and I can tell that everyone there is really enthusiastic about the food. If I worked in the area, I'd probably eat here a few times a week, but for now it's the perfect spot for a weekend lunch.

Try it out. You'll be glad you did.

Wood Tavern
6317 College Avenue
Oakland, CA 94620
(510) 654-6607
Full bar.
Credit cards and reservations accepted.

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