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The great Bronx sfogliatelle showdown (with photos)


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The great Bronx sfogliatelle showdown (with photos)

rose water | Dec 8, 2006 02:03 AM

My friend kenito799 and I have been on a Sfogliatelle mission, aided by the Bronx hounds:

Until today, Enrico's was the winner: Crisp, buttery, rich and delicious. With pastry that tastes like a cross between fettuccine and phyllo...but super buttery, fried up, rich, crispy and delicious fettuccine/phyllo. Filling dense and sweet, but not too sweet, with a nice citrus note. I got this batch just before Thanksgiving, and my family loved it. (I also got their apple pie, which was fantastic—large chunks of just-firm-enough, just-sour-enough apple). The biggest downside is that Enrico's doesn't always have sfogliatelle, and I've made multiple disappointing trips there for it--so call in advance (718 823-7207).

Tried Egidio's on E 187th St (just off Arthur Ave) and they were just ok. Pastry not as crisp, filling a touch too sweet.

Stopped in DeLillo's another time and they never made eye contact, slowly making their way over to the seated cafe customers. Anxious about playing hooky from my work for too long, I took off. Another time. I'll say that they didn't look spectacular.

But then, chowhound extraordinaire kenito799 dragged me to a place he discovered that he claimed was the best yet. I dubiously but dutifully followed along. Turns out that he found a place that only opened up about a month ago on Arthur Ave. I couldn't find any address details online, and neglected to pick up a card. The place is called Morrone's, and it's located on Arthur Ave, near Dominick's, across the street from the market. Inside it's shiny and bright, with a display case packed with fresh, promising looking Italian cookies and pastries, priced by the pound. The sfogliatelle is not as browned and buttery crisp looking as Enrico's. But indeed, these are the ultimate in sfogliatelle pleasure. The layers of pastry are crisp and fresh, thicker than phyllo, but more delicate than the shards of (admittedly delicious) buttery fettuccine of Enrico's. Filling is just sweet enough, and not too sweet, with a touch of citrus. We made the mistake of getting the small ones, and it took incredible restraint to not eat the one I saved for my partner. But I'm excited to go back.

kenito799 then continued the quest without me, and told me today that the Morrone's we sampled is the new outpost of an existing bakery on Williamsbridge Road, near Pelham Parkway. That location is:
Morrone's Bakery
1946 Williamsbridge Rd
Bronx, NY 10461
(718) 828-8111
According to kenito, the sfogliatelle are just as good there as at their Arthur Ave counterpart.

So hounds, get thee to the Bronx. And if you find something better, certainly let us know.

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