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Gelato

Best Gelato in Le Marche, maybe the world

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Best Gelato in Le Marche, maybe the world

adam | Nov 20, 2002 04:10 PM

the recent wonderful posting on Le Marche inspired me to mention one of my own culinary experiences there.

Travelling by train from Pesaro to Rome, I stopped over at the town of Jesi, and happened upon the Bar Trieste, a magical gelateria cum wine bar cum museum not far from the train station. (for directions, see below).

The gelateria is so old that its phone # has only 4 digits, been a gelateria since 1911, I think. The place is a veritable culinary museum of the Marche-- several dimly lit rooms whose walls are decorated floor to ceiling with antique cooking devices, from ladles to wine presses. The owner is also a sommelier who teaches wine courses at a nearby cooking school, and his places double as a wine bar that serves only Marche wines (NB Jesi itself is famous for its verdicchio di Jesi).

As far as the gelato goes this is the best gelato I've ever had, including that of the fabled gelaterie of Noto, Sicily. The gracious owner invited me to watch him work his magic in the kitchen. He believes that gelato is merely the essense of any flavor, and a gelato master should be able to create delicious gelato from any food (fish, zucchini, etc). Lucky for me, that day, he was making chocolat gelato. To emphasize the quality of the "batter", he steamed some for me at the espresso machine and I drank it down--a better hot chocolate I've never drunk. The rest went into this clunker of a gelato maker: a bowl and one big paddle, which paddled away for a good 10 minutes (newer machines do the job in 2). When he at last raised the paddle, the chocolate clung tenaciously like wet clay. yum.

So I don't know the address, but it's only a few minutes from the train station (you could stop over at Jesi en route to Rome just for this). Walk up the main street toward the town center. After about 2 minutes, on the right (heading toward town), you will see a sign for Bar Trieste. Or I guess you could ask. Fred Plotkin and Faith Willinger both mention the great gelato of Jesi in their Italian food guides, but neither mentions this place. I have no idea why.

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