We're new to Bologna , but already we've got a staple place: the Sorbetteria Castiglione, on Via Castiglione, 44. Fabulous hand-made gelati (you can see them making it behind the counter)--a short list of traditional flavors, then 6 or 7 of their "original" flavors in moan-inducing combinations like mascarpone and candied pine nut. On a Sunday afternoon, the street outside is packed with locals enjoying their cups--much like the scene outside Mitchell's, our favorite ice-cream shop in hometown San Francisco. The fior di Panna (sweet cream) and chocolate are simply amazing--much softer than American ice cream, richer and intensely flavorful. That said, we can't live on gelato alone! any suggestions for good trattorias or not-too-expensive restaurants? We're living near the Piazza Maggiore, so we can get anywhere within the center. thanks!