Restaurants & Bars

Gault-Millau 2004

cabrales | Jan 27, 200401:43 PM

According to Gastronomie, the Gault-Millau 2004 France has the following items of note:

-- Veyrat keeps 20/20 for his two restaurants. Veyrat first got 20/20 in 2003, when the G-M noted the 20/20 was for a flawless meal experience. (In my mind, Veyrat doesn't deserve even 17/20, and does not deserve three stars Michelin)

-- Chef of the Year is Jean-Paul Abadie of L'Amphitryon at Lorient. He gets 19/20.

-- The reduction in rating for Bernard Loiseau from 19/20 to 17/20, with some not so kind words, in 2003 had been blamed as having contributed to his suicide. The 17/20 is retained for La Cote d'Or in 2004, with an indication that the "team has an obvious motivation to succeed", to achieve "Loiseau without Loiseau".

-- Previously 19/20 tables were reduced in rating to 18: Michel Guérard at Eugénie-les-Bains; Jacques Lameloise at Chagny; and Les Crayères at Reims. I don't believe Lameloise and Boyer should have been demoted, even though Boyer has retired.

-- Four promotions to 18/20: Bristol; Jacques Chibois at la Bastide Saint-Antoine à Grasse; Thierry Marx at Château Cordeillan-Bages at Pauillac; Gilles Goujon at l'Auberge du Vieux-Puits at Fontjoncouse.

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