You might easily walk past the somewhat grimy window of
Full Kee on the edge of Washington's very small
Chinatown, but that would be a big mistake.
Full Kee is a marvel....a consistently excellent Hong
Kong style restaurant with an interesting menu and
outstanding cooking. The regular menu looks like
standard issue Chinese and it may be fine--I never
order from it. The strategy is to order from the
laminated card on the table, the typed sheet inside the
back cover, which translates the Chinese-language
pennants on the wall, point to dishes that your
Chinese neighbors are enjoying, or ask the generally
My favorite dishes: Hong Kong style won-tons in broth
(succulent shrimp wrapped in a delicate wrapper in a
peppery broth); clams in black bean sauce (the best
version I have ever tasted); crispy fried soft-shelled
crabs (a tempura like preparation that will spoil you
for other crab dishes); Singapore-style rice noodles
(with a haunting curry overtone); beef chow fun with
broccoli (the wide noodles are exceptionally silky);
pork and bean curd strips with black bean sauce; any
shrimp dish; fascinating "hot-pots" including one with
brisket and onions with an anise overtone; and any
vegetable preparation--from broccoli Vietnamese style
with garlic to spinach (stir-fried or steamed) to
watercress to the more exotic like snow pea leaves and
I could go on, but you get the idea....
Located on H Street NW between 5th and 6th Street, Full
Kee is open from 11 am to 1 am everyday (Friday and
Saturday to 3 am). No credit cards or checks: cash
If you are in town and are interested in going, let me
know; I will be happy to join you.
Jim Zurer -- Washington DC
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