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French bourgeois cooking in London


Restaurants & Bars 5

French bourgeois cooking in London

J Sheridan | Jan 9, 2013 02:49 AM

I've been to four French restaurants over the last year or so. Last night it was Le Vacherin in Chiswick. A pretty room, busy but not too noisy. Crab raviolo was startlingly black (squid ink presumably) and bathed in a hollandaise-ish sauce with pieces of girolle. A friend's cheese souffle was even better. Confit duck was unctuous with a sticky reduced gravy and Puy lentils. Dessert was an extremely delicious tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream in crunchy butterscotch cups. The only downside was the service: we had to ask twice for our second bottle of wine and side vegetables, which eventually came when we had almost finished our main course.

The others were Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, La Trompette in Chiswick and Les Deux Salons near Trafalgar Square. The best of the bunch was Chez Bruce, which allows itself to widen the definition of French cuisine and has a delightful sommelier. The least good, though still enjoyable, was Les Deux Salons.

Koffman next?

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