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The French Bistro in Milford, NH (long)

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The French Bistro in Milford, NH (long)

Rich Cianci | Jul 29, 2005 12:22 AM

I had dinner at the French Bistro in Milford, NH last week. I've been eating at the place about once a week for a few weeks now. I believe that I’ve found one of the best if not the best restaurant in the area. The place is located on route 101A in Milford just north of the downtown rotary. The building itself serves as a combination home and gift shop. There is a railroad caboose attached to the house that serves as the bistro’s dining room. Also attached to the house is an ice cream stand that is open during the summer months.

Now, on to the chow!

I started the evening with a kir, the French aperitif made with white wine and crème de cassis liqueur. I found it to be a little heavy on the cassis for me, but still a pretty nice way to start the meal. For starter I had a slice of their made-in-house terrine. Definitely, the best hunk of cold meatloaf I’ve had in my life! It was porky, garlicky, sweet with fennel, and studded with meaty mushrooms and rich pork fat. It went very nicely with the Cote du Rhone I ordered. For my main course, I had veal kidneys in a sage and mustard sauce, accompanied by haricot verts and tiny buttery potatoes. The kidneys were perfectly cooked with a lovely crisp-tender texture. If you are a fan of kidneys, please know that they do them very well here. If you have never tried them and are curious, this might just be the place to make that leap.

Being a bit greedy, I ordered the cheese plate, which consisted of four beautifully ripe French cheeses. There was a fresh and tangy goat cheese whose name I forget, a sheep’s milk Tomme au Fenouil, studded with fennel seeds, a sharp and spicy Bleu d'Auvergne, and a rich, silky Epoisse de Burgogne. I finished this feast with a not too sweet berry tart and a double espresso. All in all, it was a most satisfying and impressive meal. The combination of great food, attentive service and casual atmosphere reminded me of a good restaurant in Montreal.

Given the quality of the food and service I experienced and given the lack of truly good restaurants in this area, I am surprised no one here has written about this place since it opened last September. So, my apologies if this place was supposed to be some sort of best kept secret. I am so impressed with the French Bistro that I want everyone to know.

Link: http://www.thefrenchbistro.com

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