thanks for the tips on the dordogne below, we went with a chow hotel rec. Also decided to spend a few days down near atlantic coast. have a hotel (arroya) and looking for any must-eat (and must-do) recs. I realize we don't have nearly enough time and probably should have stuck to one area but couldn't resist. will try to get to bayonne for chocolate and ham. would love to go into st. sebastian for a day if possible. why is vacation so short? thanks in advance.