" . . . But we do that job very differently. 'US critics write as if they are the inheritors of the mantle of Tom Wolfe or Hemingway,' says Giles Coren, who reviews for the Times in the UK. 'They go five times. There’s a pomposity to the way they write.'
Sam Sifton, the food editor of the New York Times, who was also the paper’s critic for two years between 2009 and 2011, returns the compliment. British restaurant critics can be 'barbaric', he says, although he admits to finding it all highly entertaining. 'For the reader, there’s something delicious about you lot going off on some horrible place. As a reader I take delight in that. We, however, have to take a more sombre approach.'
Indeed they do. Travelling across the US, undertaking research for my latest book on my last meal on earth, which draws on my 20 years as a restaurant critic, I was constantly struck by the difference in tone. . . "
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