Restaurants & Bars 16


Simon Majumdar | Oct 26, 2001 04:24 PM

I know I have professed to loathe chain restaurants, but I have to admit a sneaking admiration for the people who run FISH!

I have been a (fairly)regular at their Borough Market branch and last night, Robin and I tried the new branch on St John's St in Clerkenwell.

The whole point of this place is that they offer a very limited menu of things which can be cooked simply and served at a resonable price. This can often be the downfall of a place as it expands for if you are just cooking a piece of fish plain, you really have nowhere to hide. I am pleased to say that this new outlet seems to have kept up the very high standards of the other 16 in the chain.

Starters were simple ( whitebait and oysters,) but impeccably fresh. Mains of grilled organic salmon and a dover sole were cooked to perfection. I like my salmon medium, a fact which most places find impossible to comprehend, but here it caused nary a pause. Sides of mushy peas, chips and a good salad were reasonable at c£2.

A bottle of Petit chablis was at the upper end of an interesting wine list at £19, but excellent value. Two glasses of calvados were only £2.50 a pop

The service is able and bizarrely most of the staff in this chain all seem to be from the same part of France ( not sure which ) Despite being packed to the gunwhales, they were amiable and efficient.

The bill for two came to c£80. Excellent value and it is great to have somewhere dependable so close to pop to at a whim.

I'm off to cheer up some chums in NY for the next week. I am sure Robin will keep his end up. He may even post about food as well


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