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Two Finds in One in San Mateo (too long)

Zach Georgopoulos | Oct 5, 200102:24 AM

If you need (1)Chicago style deep dish pizza, or (2)barbecue in San Mateo, read on:

Found myself in San Mateo tonight, around Borrel Square, 'round about dinner time. Now, a year or so ago I could roll right on down to Redneck Earl's for some excellent BBQ, but that was before their rather sudden and strange closure (what was up with that? Death in the family? Health code violation? Just what the heck does "circumstances beyond our control" mean?). Unfortunately, though, this got me in the mood for barbecue, and nothing else would do. I'd heard of Ms. Pinkie's (and seen it from the freeway), but I decided to call my old Peninsula friend Big Ray just to be safe. Ray's a chowhound if there ever was one, but he ain't no joiner so we're not likely to see posts from him any time soon.

-Yo Hepcat, D'jeat yet?
-No man, the game's on. Bonds is gonna bat.
-Whatever. I'm Peninsular and I'm hungry. What's the deal on Ms. Pinkie's?

Hmmm. When Ray says something "sucks," that doesn't necessarily mean it's bad, just that something random rubbed him the wrong way. Maybe he didn't like the window treatments. Anyhow, rather than distract him from the game, I just head over to his place. Bonds hits his 70th, and we hit the pavement in the Z-mobile in search of barbecue on the Peninsula.

So Ray tells me about this Chicago style deep dish place back in Borrel Square (whence I came) where Farrell's Ice Cream Parlor used to be (I miss that place). Now, much as I'd love to try a new Chicago pie venue, I wanted barbecue, dammit -- was he not listening? Not to worry! Windy City Pizza has a full barbecue menu! Ray attests to the pizza being good, so he figures the barbecue can't be half bad.

He's right. Not the best, but very far from the worst, Windy City does up a right tolerable brisket -- complete with burnt ends (they claim 16 hours of smoking), and a pretty tangy little sauce. The pork ribs were tender, but not of the falling-off-the-bone variety I had at Doug's last weekend. Still, the meat parted from the bone without much work, was plenty juicy, and slid down the gullet in an effortless and pleasing manner. Sides were so-so, but I didn't have much room for them anyhow. The beans were too sweet, and the sweet potatoes were probably just sweet enough (which was too much after the too-sweet beans). So be forwarned: no sweet potatoes with beans and vice versa. Otherwise, all is good and we got out of there for about $30 total including Sierra Nevada on tap.

I'll go back for the deep dish one of these days and report, but I trust Ray in most matters comestible and he sez it's "good," (which is a big step up from "doesn't suck" and probably equates to what others might call "darned good" or maybe even "excellent." I'll have to ask him one of these days).

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