I mean sure, if I'm in Spain I'll go to the godfather.(Because why not?). But I live in NYC and have never felt the urge to spend my money on someone else's "experiments". Hence no Dufresne, no Liebrandt.(As far as I know, that's about it for New York: Chicago and D.C. are way ahead of us [or behind us, depending how you see it] in this area). And Liebrandt is easy enough to miss-- the guy gets fired more than a Tommygun in Prohibition Chicago, even after the three-star NYT review @ Compass. My postgraduate work was in art history (hence I cook as a profession) so I am well-versed in the virtues of the avant-garde in literature, art, music blah blah blah... but when it comes to dinner I'm not at all sure that I want my meal to be smarter than me.Or think that it is.