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Fans Cuisine on Bowery


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Fans Cuisine on Bowery

Steven Stern | Aug 2, 2000 05:45 PM

This one of those new-fangled Hong Kong places--like Funky Broome--that seem to be popping up. I've mentioned it in a couple of posts, based solely on appearance and chow radar. Well, I finally tried it, and I think it might be as good as I thought it might be.

Two meals so far--haven't ordered anything complicated, but I've liked just about everything. Best dish: a "green bean noodle" and crab casserole--lovely slippery bean threads soaking up the rich juices of many, -many- perfectly cooked crabs. Great fried rice, several varieties: both the duck and sausage and the bacon and preserved cabbage were winners. The prawns with black pepper showed up at the table looking like a lousy fancied-up gringo choice--shiny with cornstarch and surrounded by broccoli florets and orange slices--but was better than it had any right to be: the shrimp were sweet and tasty, and the sauce, while a little too viscous, had real depth and complexity and a nice peppery kick. Great garlicky watercress and real good Chinese broccoli. There's definitely the feeling of a single intelligence in the kitchen, one person's aesthetic running the show. All the flavors were particularly clean and focused (vague words, I know, but the best I can come up with).

Additionally: the best bubble tea I've ever tasted and a fine iced Horlick's served in a big jelly jar. Nice little extras, too: freebie peanuts and radish pickle to start, particularly fragrant tea, hot towels before and after the meal, and truly exceptional watermelon to finish.

It's at 98 Bowery between Grand and Hester. I'll definitely be back, working my way through the menu, and I'd love to get recommendations from other eaters who venture in.

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