Restaurants & Bars 23

Eyre Brothers- Close but no Cigala

Simon Majumdar | Sep 3, 200106:35 PM

The Eyre Brothers once ran The Eagle which was one of the first and indeed best of London's gastro pubs ( the one which set the standards for all others to follow)

They have now decided to venture into the world of fine dining with an expensive ( in every sense of the word ) new restaurant just off Old st in London. They are really trying to slide in on the airstream of Moro and Cigala with a Spanish touch that is neither followed through or well thought out.

A meal for two including a bottle of overpriced Piedmontese wine would be be close to £150. To put that into true perspective, that is £50 more than La Trouvaille and comparable with Foiliage. Eyre Brothers in neither one of those exemplary restaurants.

Cocktails were not over priced for the area at £6 for sufficiently dry but not sufficiently cold Bombay Sapphire martini's ( why can't people get the idea of chilling glasses for god sake?)

Starters of Filleto Freddo and Sardines wrapped in Pancetta were very good but marred by the long wait to get both them and the wine.

Main courses were very ordinary, A pork and clam stew was a nosebleed inducing £17 and a very fatty butterfly leg of lamb was the same.

The wine list is nacent and must improve to have any chance of impressing and the list of stickies was ill considered ( if you are going to do the Spanish thing, why no Carlos Primera? )

Service was much more miss than hit. As one of the Brothers Eyre admitted, they could not get enough of the right staff and were still "bedding in" This raises a question. If the Theatres charge you less to watch a preview when the cast are still finding their way through the script, why do places like this charge you full whack when they are using you as training for their staff.

The only real plus point of the place was that it is less than 30 secs from my front door and The Dragon Bar is between there and here and they were playing Big Youth's Hotter Fire at Full volume. Just the thing to see off a Maker's Mark


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