Recently we travelled with family from Vercelli up to Varallo in order to experience the Valsesian cuisine in the region northwest up toward the Alps. Our desination was the source of the Sesia River near Monte Rosa, but we only got as far as Varallo, where my relative had stayed in the Albergo Italia, site of a former Ursuline Convent.
The dining room was full that day for lunch, mostly business folks in large parties as well as the local priest. Trout fishing is undertaken with gusto which led to an order of Filettini di trota salmoneta e zucchino. The white fish meat, despined, was served cold in a vinager bath. Wonderfully refreshing! Other dishes: Allagro di moscato, saffron rice, Valsesian salmon, veal roast with porcini, scallopine alla tonna e funghi, tripe soupe and "rane fritte" -- this was the frog season where sometimes the little devils just cover the road, especially down in the area of Vercelli, rice capital of the world, where the paddies are full of 'em. We drank a Langhe Arneis.
The husband and wife team who manage this spot do a wonderful job of making the visitor feel welcome. Wait staff is the essence of professionalism.